Because I'm a bit lazy with the whole writing a blog thing we'll start this look forwards by looking back. Sort of.
Back in September, to celebrate his retirement Faithir hired a nice house up near Achiltibuie for a weeks holiday. I rode the Africa Twin up taking in Glen Quaich in Perthshire on the way. It's a great wee singletrack road that runs from Amulree to Kenmore on the banks of Loch Tay. If you're heading north from the Edinburgh area and have the time, it's definitely worth the detour.
The week was spent chilling out doing holiday stuff and going out on the pushbike with HB. I took the chance to get out on some nice spins on the bike too. Achiltibuie and the surrounding area makes up the Coigach peninsula which is just missed and no more by the North Coast 500 route. (more on that later) Luckily for me this keeps my favorite part of the Scottish mainland relatively quiet, especially when compared with the wee villages north of Lochinver. A big traillie is the ideal companion for these roads, long suspension flatting out all the bumps and relaxed geometry taking the twitchy arse out of the gravel patches. I had a few runs up to Lochinver and round Loch Assynt as well as visiting Scourie and nipping out to Oldshoremore to scope out the camping area for future trips.
A week after our holiday in Achiltibuie I chucked the tent on the Africa Twin and headed away for a few nights camping. This time I met Faithir at
Pondside Campsite, a great wee quiet site just outside Lairg. From there I headed to Applecross to meet HB while Faithir went to Raasay where him and Smillie were going to stay in the hostel. I had a great run following part of the NC500 from Ullapool to Torridon before a foggy climb over the Bealach Na Ba to Applecross. I had expected the road to be busy, lots of people had mentioned that the traffic had got a bit crazy since the birth of the new tourist route, but I had the usual long stretches of world class scenery and roads to myself.
Great crack with the other folk staying at Pondside Campsite
NC500 views.
The start of the Bealach Na Ba. It's NOT called the "Applecross Pass", its the Bealach Na Ba.
The Belach Na Ba may have been misty and damp at the top but thanks to its microclimate, Applecross was basking in the sunshine. This is quite a common phenomenon in Scotland. The bad weather hangs on the hills while lower down all is nice. Applecross is sheltered by Skye's Cullins, the Torridon Hills and the Applecross hills that the Bealach Na Ba crosses. HB and I treated ourselves to a meal in the Applecross Inn and a night in a Wigwam, which saved having to pitch the tent.
Our third and final night was spent at Tobermory on Mull. I took the Lochaline ferry over via a wee detour around the Morvern coast road. I met Faithir and Smillie at Tobermory hostel. They'd really enjoyed they're stay on Raasay. I'll have to get my arse over at somepoint. Not long after, HB arrived and we all headed out for a cracking Chinese/Indian meal followed by a few beers in the Mishnish.
Tobermory
A few weeks later I was off again. this time there was no tents needed. Aidan, Faithir and I had booked a wigwam at Skye Forest Gardens just beside the Armadale ferry terminal, a wigwam at Applecross and one of Tim's huts at Sunart Campsite in Strontian. I fancied getting to Skye a bit earlier so came up with a plan to head up to the secret bothy after work. I had figured I would get to the bothy in the last of the light. I was wrong. By the time I got on the road to the bothy it was getting dark. Riding a motorcycle in the dark in remote areas of Scotland is not recommended. You may be the only person around for miles but there are plenty large animals with poor road sense ready to loup out in front of you. I slowed my pace right down as huge, grand stags wandered across the beam of my headlight. At the bothy my headlight picked out a huge bird of prey that had been sitting by the bothy. It was massive! I think either a Golden Eagle or an Eagle Owl. The wingspan was six foot easy. Through one of the bothy Facebook groups I knew there would be another couple of people staying the night, which I was glad to know. It would be pretty boring and a wee bit spooky spending the night there on my own. I rounded the corner to go in to the candlelight and say hello but........
Darkness.
No one was home.
I got a wee fire going, lit some candles and cooked my tea. A beer had burst in my pannier so I dried everything out, reminding myself once more to put some sort of buffer between the metal pannier and the cans. I read some book as my wee woodpile quickly dwindled, resigning myself to a lonely night when I heard voices. In walked Joyce and Keir, seasoned hill walkers who were no strangers to bothy living. They'd brought a big bag of coal which really kept the October cold at bay and we had a great night chatting around the fire.
Keir at the Bothy.
After a quick breakfast I said my goodbyes to Joyce, Keir and the bothy and headed off. Once back on the road I noticed than in the previous night's darkness I'd completely missed a flock of yellow sheep. I had loads of time to get to the ferry so I stopped whenever I wanted for photos. The roads were empty, the sun was out and the scenery was absolutely stunning. Scotland in October offers some of the best motorcycling in the world. For long stretches I was the only person on the road. Any traffic I caught up with was easily passed. It may be a little cooler but the autumn air is clear, giving amazing views of the stunning colours that time of year has to show.
At the ferry I discovered there had been some changes to the service, the larger ferry was being used elsewhere so the Armadale to Mallaig crossing had a smaller boat. Luckily there was still a wee bit room so I booked myself and Aidan and Faithir on. They had said they were going to leave early in the morning so they should be here for the one o'clock ferry. I got some lunch and supplies in Mallaig and waited for them to turn up. One o'clock came and went with no sign of Aidan or Faithir, so I boarded the ferry over the sea to Skye.
Skye Forest Gardens is a great, but slightly off the wall place. It's based around being very eco friendly so there's composting toilets, lots of ducks and other wildlife kicking around. We've stayed there before but never in their wigwam, which has a prime spot overlooking the ferry terminal. I gathered firewood and had a good wander around the place. There's lots of wee hides and things where you can watch birds, otters and other wildlife. Being close to the ferry terminal meant I could use the Wifi and keep in touch with the missing halfwits. It turned out that they had stopped for ages at Ballinluig Motor Grill for a rake of food. The four o'clock ferry was full so they rode round the long way, eventually rolling up at sixish.
As I said, October is an amazing time to tour Scotland, but it does get a bit cold at night. We headed to the local pub for a feed and got in a wee pool competition with the locals. A good night all round.
Another stunning autumn day accompanied our short ride from Skye over to Applecross. This time the Bealach Na Ba was clear allowing me to get some nice photos. We had our usual visit to the Applecross Inn where you can always be sure of a good laugh to go with the great food and drink.
The next day it was back over the still clear Bealach Na Ba and on to Strontian. We done our usual stop in at the Waterside Cafe for breakfast before taking the long way round Loch Eil and Loch Linnhe. We stay at Tim's campsite (
www.sunartcamping.co.uk) all the time, it was good to see him again. Tim is also into bikes so the usual bike discussion was had before another pub meal was enjoyed. It got pretty cold that night, while out taking a photo of the frost on the bikes I seen the Northern Lights. Braw.
Faithir on the Bealach Na Ba.
It was while riding home after this October trip I decided to write a wee guide to touring Scotland, especially to try and give a few tips and suggestions to you if you're new to biking or touring by bike.
Scotland has a lot to offer. Stunning scenery, blue seas,
white sandy beaches, amazing roads, world class food and drink, remote
wilderness and that feeling of isolation, like you’re the only person for miles.
When I speak to people about travelling through Scotland however, the same
questions and statements always crop up. “It always rains! Where are the best
places to go? The midges will eat you alive! Are you riding the NC500? I’m
riding the NC500! What’s wild camping? When’s the best time to go?” The answers
and responses us Scottish bikers hear to these questions and statements can
range from the informative, through comical, to compete nonsensical. I’ve been
riding around Scotland for years so this is my attempt to provide a wee guide
to riding Scotland while giving away some of our more remote destinations.
Where are the best
places to go?
Unless you’ve spent the last wee while living in a cave,
you’ll have heard about the North Coast 500 or NC500 for short. The NC500 is a
very popular tourist route that follows the coast from Inverness up to John
O’Groats then over top of the country and down the west coast. It’s a great
route and a good base for a Scotland trip. In my opinion its best done anti
clockwise from Inverness, for all the information you need have a look at
www.northcoast500.com. I’d give
yourself three to four nights to ride the whole thing. Sure, it can be done
much faster but you’ll appreciate the time to stop and take in the sights and
the odd detour here and there.
Arguably the most talked
about part of the NC500 in motorcycling terms is the Bealach Na Ba, the road to
Applecross. This 11 mile single track road is the third highest road in the
country and has been compared to alpine passes due to its hairpin bends. I’ve
heard loads of people saying how much they are looking forwards to riding this
infamous road using words like “nailing it” but…….. Maybe I’m wrong, or just
saying what everyone else is thinking, but the Bealach Na Ba is a shite riding
road. It’s got loads of blind corners, it’s pretty busy and it just doesn’t
have a good flow. I’m not saying that you shouldn’t ride it, you definitely
should, but it should be approached in a “take in the scenery” manner rather
than trying to set any speed records. My advice to anyone planning a visit to
Applecross is to actually stay at Applecross itself. Sitting outside the
Applecross Inn getting the craic with other travellers over a pint while
watching the sunset before heading into the Inn for some tasty local seafood is
hard to beat. I always feel sorry for the folk who have to head back to their
accommodation over the hill just as the banter at the pub is getting good.
There is a good campsite at Applecross which has Wigwam camping huts and static
caravans for hire. These should be booked in advance. If you fancy staying in
the Applecross Inn then you will need to book that several months in advance.
There’s also a hostel opened up, I’ve not stayed there but it gets good
reviews.
So you’ve ridden the Bealach na Ba and got the bug for these
twisty, remote, single track roads. You’re wanting a bit more, possibly some of
this “wild camping” you may have heard about. It’s legal to camp anywhere in
Scotland as long as you don’t damage anything or disturb anyone. (see
https://www.visitscotland.com/accommodation/caravan-camping/wild-camping/
for more guidelines) Here’s a few suggestions.
Kinloch Hourn
About five miles north from Invergarry on the A87 there is a
turn off signposted Kinloch Hourn. This is a 22 mile dead end, single track
which at the end of lies Kinloch Hourn. Scenically this can match any other
road in Scotland. No one finds themselves at Kinloch Hourn by accident, there’s
not much there apart from a farm building, a car park and a small designated
camping area. If you are planning on camping take some fuel for a fire in with
you and you’ll need £1 per person for the Gamekeeper. Only build fires in
existing firepits and don’t cut down live trees. In the farm buildings there is
a small café, if you ask nicely the owner might leave the toilet in the
outbuildings open for you.
Ardnamurchan/Mull/Morvern
Starting at Strontian follow the A861 west to Salen then the
B8007 to Kilchoan and Ardnamurchan. There’s plenty wild camping opportunities
along this stunning road which changes dramatically the further west you get.
There’s also a great, biker ran campsite at Stontian with camping huts and a
drying room if you’re kit is wet. There’s another campsite at Kilchoan, it’s
worth visiting the Ardnamurchan lighthouse too. From Kilchoan you can get the
ferry to Tobermory on Mull. Mull is a great island to visit, the ferries are
subsidised and therefore cheap. There is a great mix of roads, scenery, wilderness
and communities to visit. The road from Tobermory to Dervaig is rollercoaster
fun. From there you head to Calgary, where there is an approved wild camping
spot just beside the public toilets. The road carries on round the coast,
dramatically hugging the cliff. Once you’re done exploring Mull get the ferry
from Fishnish to Lochaline heading back to Strontian but take the turn
signposted Kingairloch B8043 for another spectacular coastal route.
Kylesku/Drumbeg/Lochinver/Inverkirkaig/Achiltibuie
The Kylesku/Drumbeg/Lochinver section of this route is part
of the NC500 and for me the best scenery in Scotland. The NC500 takes you out
of Lochinver along the A837, but for the more adventurous there is the single
track road to Achiltibuie via Inverkirkaig. If you enjoyed the Drumbeg to
Lochinver road you’ll love this. Follow signs to Achiltibuie and do the
Polbain/Altandhu loop around the Coigach peninsula. There’s a great campsite
beside the Am Fuaran pub. You can also wild camp in various spots, just stick
to the code. Follow the road signposted for Ullapool. Another stunning single
track road that takes you right under Stac Pollaidh. I’m told it’s an easy
climb if you’re feeling fit.
The Glenelg to
Kylerhea ferry.
There’s a junction on the A87 just south of Dornie, home of
the famous Eilan Donan Castle, for Glenelg and the Glenelg Ferry. This is a
unique way to get over to Skye and a cracker of a road into the bargain. The
Glenelg ferry is over 40 years old and by using it to get over the narrow
crossing you’re helping to conserve a piece of history. The road up on the Skye
side is equally stunning and the whole trip is only about 20 miles. There also
a great chance to see Sea Eagles and other wildlife. If you fancy staying, the
pub at Glenelg will let you wild camp beside the loch as long as you eat in the
pub.
The A9
If you are midway through planning your trip and you’ve
included the A9 from Perth to Inverness in your itinerary then I’m sorry, but
you’re going to have to change your route. The A9 has nothing to offer. It’s
full of average speed cameras which turn the drivers on the road into zombies,
dead eyes fixed firmly on their speedometers. They toil to look out for each
other never mind a happy biker heading out on their travels. Trust me, while my
suggestion may add an hour or two extra on to your journey you get rewarded by
riding one of Scotland top routes over our highest road. From Perth follow the
A93 to Blairgowrie and through Glen Shee to Braemar. From Braemar carry on the
A93 heading to Ballater but take the turn signposted Tomintoul B976 (A939).
This goes over The Lecht, Scotland’s highest road. There’s a café in the ski
centre at the top. From Tomintoul follow signs to Carrbridge and Inverness.
You’ll only have to do a short stint on the A9, keep an eye out for those
average speed cameras and zombie drivers.
When’s the best
time to go? It rains all the time! The midges will eat you alive!
Midges and weather seem to be people’s big concern when
planning a trip to Scotland, with lots of advice to come up in April and May
before the midges wake up hungry. While this is true, the weather in April and
May is a huge gamble, the hot sunny days are heavily outweighed by the colder
wet weather. My favourite time is later in the year. September and October can
be really rewarding, with a lot of the tourists gone it can feel like you have
the whole country to yourself, the trade off being it can get a bit colder at
night. June, July and August is Scotland’s busy season for tourists and midges
so pack midge repellent. The best thing to get rid of the dreaded beastie is a
good breeze as they can’t fly when there’s wind blowing. If it’s still then try
Avon Skin So Soft but a midge net/hat is the best defence. A good campfire can
help too.
Rain is usually inevitable, but nowhere near as bad as it’s
made out to be. Some parts of the country are much worse than others. The area
around Fort William and Skye seems to be the worst for rain with the East Coast
being the driest. The North West can be pretty changeable but when it’s good,
which in the summer it often is, it’s really good. Lots of places have
“microclimates” going on. I’ve came over the top of the Bealach Na Ba when it’s
been wet and cloudy while at the bottom Applecross is basking in sunshine. The
most important thing to deal with whatever weather Scotland gives you is a
positive attitude, but waterproofs are a close second.
Where to stay?
For me, camping is the best way to see Scotland. Wild
camping gives you a great freedom and even the proper campsites seem to be in
the best spots. Camping huts, Wigwams and hostels give an affordable, slightly
more luxurious option but while you can usually just roll up to a campsite
you’ll need to book these in advance. Hotels and B&Bs will need to be booked
in well in advance and can be very expensive in high season. While the NC500 is
proving very popular accommodation along the route can be sparse. Don’t make
the mistake of just turning up expecting to find a bed only to be told that the
nearest vacancy is 70 miles away.
What to take?
If you are planning to camp you’ll need a good, strong tent.
People may go on about Scottish rain, but it’s our wind that destroys tents.
I’ve seen it happen on several occasions, especially on the North Coast or on
some of the islands. Get yourself a good self-inflating sleeping mat and a
decent sleeping bag. These don’t have to be super light efforts that pack down
to the palm of your hand as long as they’re comfortable and warm. A camping
pillow is nice, but you can always use your clothes. If you’re planning on
eating out you won’t need a stove. My luxury item is a jet boil, a compact,
highly efficient but very expensive stove which is ideal for making your
morning coffee. A camping chair is nice but if you can tough it you can use a
pannier as a seat. A tarp makes a great shelter if the showers start. I always
find the best thing to have in my panniers is space. That way I can pick up
stuff I want on route.
Anything else?
I think I’ve covered everything without giving away too many
spoilers. Before you head up do plenty of research. If you want to ride the
really popular routes like Glencoe then try and get there midweek. Give
yourself plenty of time, what might be a 40 mile stretch of road might take you
well over an hour to ride. You’ll get away without a GPS but take a map. Pay
attention to the signs on the single track roads and watch out for confused drivers
diving into the wrong passing place.
Whatever the weather does, enjoy yourself and when you get
home remember to tell everyone it pissed down the whole time and the midges
were terrible, we don’t want everyone coming up here.
If you'd like someone to show you around the best biking roads in Scotland I have just launched my new venture, Passing Places. We can organise your bike trip whether you are looking at a low budget wild camping trip in the remote wilderness, or you're wanting to splash out on cosy B&Bs and luxurious hotels.
I'm working on a website at the moment
www.passingplacestours.com
We also put regular posts on Facebook so be sure to give us a like and a follow on there.
https://www.facebook.com/passingplacestours
I drivelled on for long enough now. I have some big plans for the coming year, but I'll tell you about them later. Here's a few photographic clues....
Mike.
